Back in Kimana

We made it back to Kimana safely and have enjoyed being back with Tyson's family.  It was like coming home.  We are grateful to have such a wonderful family welcoming us into their home and taking care of us.  Our work in Kimana varies daily.  We have been eager to complete some projects at Oloile secondary school, but we have had some setbacks or delays as we wait for additional funding for the projects that need to be completed.  It has been a long waiting process, but we are assured the funding is finally available and that Mike should be able to dive into the projects by next week.  The school is absolutely beautiful, but needs a bit more work in terms of repairs as well as new buildings.  I have been working at the Kimana clinic.  I have been able to spend some time working in the maternal/child/family planning clinic assessing expectant mothers, providing birth control, weighing babies, and doing HIV testing. In addition to working at the clinic, I have been preparing to do some health teachings at the school. I will be teaching health classes two days a week, mainly focusing on reproductive health, disease, and pregnancy.   I am eager to get into the classroom.  The teachers are happy to have a foreigner come and teach about reproductive health, especially some of the more conservative teachers.  One teacher explained that much of the reproductive health material is still very taboo and he personally prefers not to discuss these subjects.  This frightens me a little…but is not suprising. The same is true in much of America. 

We have decided to take a little time away to explore another part of Kenya, and to do a little processing away from the daily work.  We are headed to Mombasa tomorrow.  It is a bit last minute, but we thought this would be optimal time as we wait to start the work at the school.  It is hard to believe we have already been here for nearly 8 weeks!  We are eager to see another part of Kenya.  Of course mike is very excited to get into the water. I will write more soon.  Some sort of ant just crawled into my computer...we will see how this one plays out:)

Much love to all of you!

A women's revolt

We made it back to Karero with the paint earlier this week (slightly different color again, but what can you do!). We returned to Karero to find a bit of an uproar among the women.  They finally united and took a stand against the men of the community.  As in many places of the world, alcoholism is a problem among the Maasai community in Karero.  The men purchase various types of alcohol from the local shops, including a somewhat lethal homemade mixture. They have been squandering their money on alcohol rather than spending it on food for the family.   So, the women all decided to walk out of their bomas together to leave the men to care for the children and animals.  They gathered at the local shops that sells the alcohol, surrounding them and forcing them to close.  They threatened to throw away all the alcohol. They came together in the night singing, praying, and yelling; calling women out of their bomas to join their struggle.  They spent the night together and sang into the morning.  We woke around 5am to songs in the distance.  What an amazing experience to witness!  I am so proud of these women. They were ultimately victorious, forcing at least one of the shops to pour out all its alcohol and promise not to sell in the future.  The women celebrated by slaughtering a goat for themselves. They found a common voice and made a positive change in the community.  Unfortunately, we returned to the shop a few days later and they were still selling alcohol. We hope the women will continue to stand against such ridiculous behavior and, hopefully, things will change little by little.

We completed the painting at the clinic. It looks so much brighter.  We left Karero yesterday.  We will return in a few weeks to check on things and do a few more repairs.  We spent last night at Tizi camp (the place we normally stay near Mali Tisa after we leave Karero before heading back to Kimana). I had a couple of adventures with some large cockroaches last night and this morning.  Unfortunately, Mike had to both fall asleep and wake to my screaming.  Last night, I lost my battle trying to catch a cockroach.  It fell down beside my feet and sent me running around the room a bit.  Then, I woke this morning to observe a large cockroach inside my mosquito net crawling right above my feet.  I screamed and jumped to Mike's bed.  Mike continues to remind me of these events and it is only 9am!  What can I say, it is not that I am afraid of the critters, but cockroaches are just gross little creatures.  I don't like them crawling on or near me.  I suppose it is better than snakes or hyenas...not sure, the jury is still out.

Last, but not least, it is important to mention that Mike spotted a local man wearing a Seahawks hat yesterday in Namanga.  Seattle sports are being well represented in Africa.  Let's hope for a better Seahawks performance this weekend.  Go Huskies!

Another week in Karero

It has been a busy week and I cannot believe it is already October! We are almost done painting the clinic, but we ran out of paint for the floor.  We actually bought the shop out of paint last time we were in Tanzania, but hopefully they will get more today.  We are headed back to Namanga and Tanzania today to stock up and then, hopefully, finish our project and head back to Kimana.  

It was a pretty eventful week in Karero.   The week started with an amazing rainstorm on Monday night.  It was a typical hot and windy afternoon when rain clouds suddenly blew in overhead.  Within minutes, the entire place was covered in water.  It reminded me of thunder showers in Houston where it would transition from sun to a rainy flash flood in a matter of moments.  The rain was so loud and forceful... silencing really.

A man appeared at the clinic during the storm.  A woman from his boma miles away had been laboring all day and was having pains.  Unfortunately, she could not get to the clinic by that time and we could not get to her due to the rains and the flooding.  We set out to her boma early the next morning.  Faith, Joyce, and I entered into the small dung and mud house where the woman had given birth.  She had successfully given birth to a beautiful and healthy baby girl, but was still in quite a bit of pain.  Her uterus was still about 2 fingerbreadths above her umbilicus and was not contracting back to where it needed to be.  I examined the baby who looked wonderful and strong.  I cleaned her, tied the cord, and encouraged mom to breastfeed as much as possible. Joyce and I both examined mom.  Joyce gave her some oxytocin and we both massaged the uterus a bit.  By the time we left, the uterus had already started to descend.  We checked on her later that night and she was much improved, smiling, and feeling better. The baby was breastfeeding well.  We were incredibly happy and thankful that they both survived the experience and were recovering.  They asked us to give the baby an English name.  We named her  “Mary.”  I think the name holds great strength.  

I  have much to learn about this traditional Maasai community, but over the last few weeks I have come to believe that the women possess great strength and fortitude.   I am still processing the complexities and challenges of its structure and gender roles.  More on this as I find the words.  We feel extremely blessed to be immersed into this community so quickly.  Working with Staff of Hope and Tyson, in particular, has allowed us to dive in and begin building relationships with the traditional Maasai community in Karero as well as the larger and more diverse communities in Kimana.  We are grateful to be able to work alongside members of the community, but also just to share in the daily flow and struggles.

More later. Must go now on the search for paint.  We miss you all and hope you are enjoying the fall.  

Lindsay's new name

I have a new Maasai name, and I think many of you will laught!  It is quite common for people here to have two names - an English name as well as a tribal (Maasai, Kikuu, etc) name.  Well, Kimare only has one name so one day when we were enjoying a meal, he decided his other name would be Simba.  This has been pretty funny because every time he sees us, he smiles and says "SIMBA" in a very deep and growling voice and then laughs.  Well, I thought it fitting to ask for a Maasai name.  After days of thought, yesterday Simba informed me that my Maasai name is Naasisho, which means "active one" or "the one who is always working."  I had to laugh.  Even in the bush in the middle of nowhere, I have to be doing something! Only a few days in the bush and these men already know me so well, even with a huge language barrier.  Simba plans to give Mike his Maasai name soon; he is still discerning.  I will keep you posted.

We are headed back out to Karero today, having loaded up with supplies in Tanzania and Namanga.  We had a restful day yesterday. We were able to post a few pictures and, of course, check the Seahawks score this morning (Go Seahawks!!!)  Hope to write again soon!

Lindsay's new name

I have a new Maasai name, and I think many of you will laught!  It is quite common for people here to have two names - an English name as well as a tribal (Maasai, Kikuu, etc) name.  Well, Kimare only has one name so one day when we were enjoying a meal, he decided his other name would be Simba.  This has been pretty funny because every time he sees us, he smiles and says "SIMBA" in a very deep and growling voice and then laughs.  Well, I thought it fitting to ask for a Maasai name.  After days of thought, yesterday Simba informed me that my Maasai name is Naasisho, which means "active one" or "the one who is always working."  I had to laugh.  Even in the bush in the middle of nowhere, I have to be doing something! Only a few days in the bush and these men already know me so well, even with a huge language barrier.  Simba plans to give Mike his Maasai name soon; his is still discerning.  I will keep you posted.

We are headed back out to Karero today, having loaded up with supplies in Tanzania and Namanga.  We had a restful day yesterday. We were able to post a few pictures and, of course, check the Seahawks score this morning (Go Seahawks!!!)  Hope to write again soon!

Here are a few pictures!

Loading the water tanks onto the tower at Oloile Secondary School in Kimana

Mike, Tyson and Kimara (aka "simba") standing by the new table Mike built

Doing a little teaching at the clinic with Faith and Joyce (Thank you EFM for the otoscope and all the supplies!)

Scraping the floor and filling in the cracks with concrete at the clinic

Mike enjoying soup with the guys (Baba Nanoia, Simba, and Tyson)

The meeting of the men (similar to a trial)

Sunset in Karero

Tyson's house and our lovely home while we are in Kimana. Mike is playing catch with Tyson's nephew.

Life in Karero

Our life in Karero sort of goes like this:

We wake around 7:30am to the sounds of one of the following:

1)      1) KiMaasai being sung or spoken directly outside of our tent

2)      2)  Children singing at the adjacent primary school

3)      3) Donkeys walking right next to the tent in route to deposit our daily water supply in a large basin behind the clinic

A wonderful woman brings us tea every morning which we enjoy with our very traditional meal…PB&J.  We have introduced PB&J to a few of the Maasai men who seem to like it, but always note that it is very sweet.  I think they prefer roasted goat meat and goat soup as they enjoyed it one morning with much delight. Mike has enjoyed many types of goat soup with the guys (i.e. goat soup made from goat intestines, goat ribs, and goat head). I always come close, but graciously decline (just can’t do it!).

We get to work after breakfast.  Mike and I in typical American/”get to work” fashion set out to work right away.  We are soon joined by Tyson, Kimare (aka “simba”…a nickname he recently gave himself), and Baba Nanoia (named so after his first born “Nanoia”). You will have to excuse my spelling! Several other Maasai men and women stop by through the day to help with work or to visit. Work consists of endless scraping, sweeping, mopping, building, and painting.  I cannot begin to explain how much dust there is in the bush.  The other day, the wind and dust blew so hard that it blew down a metal kitchen at the school.  The dust is 2-3 inches deep in some areas.  This makes it difficult when you are trying to paint the floor!  Anyway, I work with the men doing the repairs, but am often interrupted to also assist with patient care and teaching.  The other day I was in my work clothes, mask and goggles, covered in dirt, bugs, and God knows what else, when I was asked to see a woman who was possibly having a miscarriage…quite a contrast of work, but it keeps me on my toes and I love it.  

The clinic is pretty much open 24 hours a day.  Things are starting to pick up and we are trying to help bring it back to life. It has been wonderful to work alongside members of the community.  The hope is really to empower the community to take ownership of and pride in this clinic.  We will see.

Joyce, Faith and her son, Alex, all live at the clinic as they await suitable housing to be built.  Ester is the laboratory technician.  Faith is the medical assistant who also helps with intake and Maasia translation.  Joyce is the new nurse who has been hired to see patients and is quickly taking ownership of clinic.  I will have to postpone an explanation of the Kenyan healthcare system, particularly roles of healthcare workers, as it would take way too long and I am still trying to understand (Alas, a “system” just as confusing and crazy as the American healthcare system!).   We exchange ideas and I have been doing some teaching. I have given her my old Sanford Guide to explain all about prescribing antibiotics, antiparasitics, etc.  Thank you to the entire Edmonds Family Medicine team, the Karero clinic is greatly benefitting from a huge donation of medical supplies. 

We break for lunch sometime between 1 and 3, depending on the meal (beans and rice vs. slaughtering a goat).  We work a bit after lunch until the early evening.  Every day varies depending on what is going on in the community, available supplies at the clinic, and tasks that need to be accomplished and how that is affected by supply (i.e. whether we have water that day).  Unlike in America, you can never assume or take for granted that you have anything, such as light or water. 

During our week at the clinic, there has been a lot of activity in the surrounding Karero Maasai community.  I cannot really explain our “typical” day in Karero without interjecting some of the week’s headlines.  Unfortunately, much of the activity has been that of violence among the Maasai men resulting in several community meetings. The Maasai judicial system works like this:

1)     1)  an event/crime  occurs such as a fight or theft *

2)     2) The next day, there is a meeting of all the Maasai men (only those who have been circumcised and older) in which all members have an opportunity to voice their opinions

3)     3) The elders then decide the punishment, which usually consists of a payment of Kenyan shillings, animals, and beer given to the victim’s family (the beer is usually for the elders)

*Note, the crime or event only includes those in which men are the victims.  For instance, there is no “trial” or punishment if a man beats his wife or if a woman is raped.  (Needless to say, this is a bit frustrating!)

I am acutely aware of the happenings in the community, as I have been seeing and treating the victims in the clinic.  The first night we were there, Joyce had left for the evening and the only people at the clinic were Faith, Alex, Mike and me.   Mike and I were just about to go to sleep when a few Maasai men and women came to the clinic.  There had been a fight and one of the men had been beaten over the head with a club, which resulted in a large open wound on his head.  Luckily, Faith could translate and I ended up suturing this guy’s head in the dark with a few broken flashlights to assist me.  Looking back, it was quite a comical scene...

 Picture this: a dark room in the middle of the bush with one broken flashlight that kept going on and off and one that continued to run out of batteries and a white American girl who speaks about 7 Maasai words (“thank you,” “how are you,” “yes”, and “no”) with an intoxicated patient who refused local anesthesia and insisted on moving his head every 2 minutes.  Ahh, it was a frustrating comedy to say the least.  Thankfully, I was able to repair his wound with ten stitches and not stick myself in the process!

The other event was that a man whipped a child with a branch across his face and the poor kid presented with a facial wound and swelling.  We bandaged him up and the man is awaiting punishment. 

These sort of violent activities are not acceptable and the community seems to take action quickly in order to establish punishment.  I hope that soon that their legal code will also apply to women. 

Mike and I sleep in tent outside of the clinic.  We prefer camping in our cozy tent to sleeping inside the clinic.  We are guarded through the night by our Maasai warrior watchman, Baba Nanoia.  Baba Nanoia (aka “leg guy” as he has a deformed foot from falling in a fire as a child and everyone calls him “leg guy” without question of insult) protects us through the night from the hyenas, donkeys, lions, and other animals that I try not to think about.  Despite his deformity, he was one of the best and fearless warriors of his tribe.   He is quickly becoming our good friend, teaching us KiMaasai language and learning some of our American slang.  We really enjoy spending time with him through the day and wish we were able to communicate better.  His KiSwahilli is a bit limited and our KiMaasai is very limited.  Despite the language barrier, we feel close to him and he protects us well.  In a sincere moment yesterday, he generously offered to give us one of his daughters as a gift.  I know this sounds absolutely crazy, but, apparently, Maasai families will sometimes give one of their children as a gift to a woman.  As much you know I would love to adopt a child from Africa, I could never imagine taking a child from his or her family.  We graciously declined…and were a bit speechless as I am not sure the proper response to this sort of offering. 

So, then, we usually fall asleep to the sound of donkeys and birds. I often wake in the middle of the night to the sound of cackling hyenas, which, if I were to think about it too closely, would scare the crap out of me!  Don’t worry mom and dad, I promise we are safe! 

So, that is a summary of our  “typical” day/week.  As you can tell amid all the digressions, there is nothing routine or typical about it.   We are in Mali Tisa and Namanga for a few days to gather more supplies before we head back out for another "week"...remember, no such as thing as time in Kenya!  

Thank you to all of you who have supported us with your generous donations. You are helping to provide a functioning clinic to this wonderful community.